Mixing needs or head types in one zone[1]
Part of the zone is soaked while the rest dries out: you overwater to compensate, and the lawn yellows in patches.
Make separate zones for sun, shade and drip, and keep one head type per zone.

The quantity calculation is not available right now.
The total and each step's time come from the same calculation as the estimator: the steps plus machine learning add up to the total. Planning steps (locate request, permits) keep the guide's fixed time.
Everything starts with two measurements: static pressure (gauge on an outdoor tap, nothing running) and available flow (bucket test). The calculator uses only part of the flow for each zone, to keep good pressure at the heads.
A zone groups heads with the same needs: sunny lawn, shaded lawn, drip beds. Spray heads and rotors are not mixed in one zone, because they do not put down the same amount of water per hour.
Heads are spaced head to head: each one's spray reaches the next. Start with the corners, then the sides, then the interior.
The precipitation rate says how much water a zone puts down per hour: 60 times the zone's flow in L/min, divided by its area in m², gives mm/h (in imperial, 96.25 times the flow in US gpm divided by the area in ft² gives in/h). The run time follows from it.
Done when : You have a static pressure read with nothing running, and two bucket tests that give similar flows.
Safety : Tighten the gauge by hand only; if the tap leaks, shut the water off before removing it.
Done when : The scale plan shows every head with its arc, every spray reaching the neighbouring heads, and zones that mix neither head types nor different needs.
Safety : Keep sprays away from windows, outdoor electrical outlets, the electric meter and surfaces where water would freeze in cold weather.
Done when : Each zone has a precipitation rate, a run time per cycle and a number of cycles, and no velocity warning remains open.
Safety : Run times that are too long soak the paths: in spring and fall, water that freezes overnight makes surfaces slippery.
Info-Excavation. Irrigation trenches are shallow, but they often cross cables: file the free request and dig by hand near the marks.
Plumbing. The connection to drinking water, the shut-off and the backflow preventer are plumbing: for others, that is work for a CMMTQ plumber. Piping installed downstream of the device is excluded from the Plumbing chapter of the Construction Code, and a landscaper can install it. An owner may do the plumbing of their own single-family house, but we recommend a plumber for this connection, which protects drinking water. Some cities also have their own requirements on connections: ask.
Electrical. The controller plugs into an existing outlet. Adding an outdoor outlet or circuit is work for a CMEQ electrician; a homeowner may not do it.
Watering. Cities set watering days and hours, often with rules specific to automatic systems.
Done when : The marks are on the ground, and you know the permitted watering hours and the city's requirements for the connection.
Safety : Do not run the trencher within 1 m of a mark; expose cables and pipes by hand.
Done when : The connection, shut-off and backflow preventer are installed, accessible and labelled, and you have the plumber's invoice with their licence number.
Safety : Never cut the main line without shutting off the water service and releasing the pressure; leave soldering and the tie-in to the plumber.
Irrigation trenches are usually 15 to 30 cm deep. Under a lawn, lift the sod strips first so they can go back afterward; a rented trencher is much faster than a spade over long runs.
Rain Bird does not recommend poly pipe for the main line; it advises schedule 40 PVC of a good diameter. Under paths, run a sleeve so the pipe can be replaced without demolition.
Done when : All trenches are at the planned depth, the pipe is laid with capped ends, and the sleeves are in place under hard surfaces.
Safety : A trencher can jump on a root or stone: hearing protection, safety boots, hands clear of the chain. Stay 1 m from the marks and dig by hand near utility lines.
The valve manifold goes downstream of the backflow preventer, in an accessible buried box. Leave enough space between valves to replace one someday.
Before fitting heads, flush each zone by opening its valve by hand: debris left in the pipes would clog the nozzles.
The controller plugs into an existing outlet; the wires to the valves are low voltage. Note which station runs which zone and post the plan next to the controller.
Done when : Each valve opens and closes its zone, water has run clear at the end of every line and no fitting leaks under pressure.
Safety : PVC primer and cement: work in open air, with gloves and safety glasses. Shut the water off before undoing a fitting.
Done when : Each controller station opens the right valve, and the zone plan is posted next to the controller.
Safety : The controller plugs into an existing outlet; do not touch the 120 V wiring. A new outlet or circuit is work for a CMEQ electrician.
Heads go in after flushing, at finished grade. At the bottom of a slope, a head fitted with a check valve stops the pipe water from draining out there after the zone shuts off.
Adjust each zone while it runs: arcs, throw, no water on the house or driveway. Then program short cycles on compacted soil, within permitted hours.
Before the first frosts, the system must be emptied: by manual drains, automatic drains or a compressed-air blowout. Rain Bird recommends a specialist for blowouts because of the risks, and asks that an above-ground backflow preventer be insulated without blocking its vents. In spring, turn the water on slowly and check every zone.
Done when : Running, every spray reaches the neighbouring heads, no hard surface gets wet, no puddle forms at low heads after shut-off, and trenches are backfilled flush with the lawn.
Safety : Never lean over a head when the zone starts: the spray comes out hard. Wear glasses while adjusting.
Done when : A full cycle runs within permitted hours with no runoff onto paths and no dry spot.
Safety : Check that no spray reaches an outdoor outlet, a light fixture or the electric meter.
Done when : Before frost, the water is off, the pipes are empty, the backflow preventer is insulated with its vents clear, and the controller is in rain mode.
Safety : Compressed air is dangerous: safety glasses, never your face over a head, never more pressure than the makers of your pipe and heads allow. Rain Bird recommends leaving the blowout to a specialist.
Part of the zone is soaked while the rest dries out: you overwater to compensate, and the lawn yellows in patches.
Make separate zones for sun, shade and drip, and keep one head type per zone.
Dry strips appear between heads, especially in corners and along edges.
Keep head-to-head coverage: each spray reaches its neighbours, starting with the corners.
Pressure drops, sprays fall short and leave gaps in coverage.
Measure the available flow and let the calculator split heads into zones that stay under the limit.
System water that has touched soil, and sometimes fertilizer, can flow back into the drinking water of the house and the network.
Have a CMMTQ plumber install the connection and the device, and lay the irrigation piping downstream only.
Sand and PVC shavings left in the pipes clog the nozzles on the first run.
Open each valve by hand until the water runs clear, then fit the heads.
Water freezes in the pipes, valves and backflow preventer and bursts them; you find the damage in spring.
Plan the shutdown before the first frosts, every fall, and have a specialist do the air blowout.
The main line stays under pressure all the time; a less rigid or undersized pipe causes pressure loss and leaks.
Use schedule 40 PVC of a good diameter for the main line, as Rain Bird recommends.
After each watering, the pipe water drains out of the lowest head and makes a soggy spot.
Fit heads with a check valve at the bottom of slopes.
You risk a notice or a fine, and watering in midday heat wastes water.
Read your city's bylaw before programming and use rain mode or a rain sensor.
The connection to drinking water, the shut-off and the backflow preventer are plumbing: done for others, they require a CMMTQ plumber. For your own house, we strongly recommend a plumber.[8, 9]
Injecting fertilizer into the irrigation water raises the risk to drinking water: the plumber must choose a backflow preventer with a higher level of protection.[8]
The controller needs a new outlet: that is work for a CMEQ electrician. A homeowner may not do their own electrical work.[10, 12]
Trenches often cross cables: file a free Info-Excavation request and dig by hand near the marks.[4, 6]
Check the municipal drinking water bylaw: permitted hours for automatic watering, rain sensor, backflow preventer requirements.[7]
Connecting an irrigation system to drinking water and the backflow preventer are plumbing work: done for others, they are reserved to CMMTQ members (subcategory 15.5). Piping installed downstream of the device is excluded from the Plumbing chapter of the Construction Code.[8, 9]
Checked October 10, 2026
Cities regulate watering with drinking water (days, hours, automatic systems, temporary bans) and sometimes connections. Read your municipality's bylaw before installing.[7]
Checked October 10, 2026
Ask for a written contract that details the zones, heads, the plumber's connection, the total price, the warranty and, if included, the fall shutdown and spring start-up. A contract signed at your home after a sales visit can be cancelled within 10 days.[15]
Checked October 10, 2026
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First version, awaiting review by an irrigation installer and a plumber. Municipal watering bylaws and exact backflow device requirements remain to be checked city by city.